As glamorous as scoring a goal is, surprisingly few novice hockey players put much effort into learning how to shoot the puck quickly, accurately, and with power. It astounds me, because it's by far the most fun part of playing hockey to me, and the most fun to practice. I'd rather shoot 1,000 hockey pucks (and regularly do) than bag skate. Granted I'm out of shape, but that's beside the point.
Yes you spend probably 90% of your time on the ice skating without the puck, maybe 9% skating with the puck, and 1% shooting...but you need to make the most of that 1% by getting that puck to the net quickly and with some heat. The key is to bend the hockey stick, which will store energy, and then release that energy into the shot toward the target. Getting the stick to flex or whip is the key.
First thing's first, we need to make sure you're using the right stick, specifically the correct flex, length, and lie.
1. Use a flex low enough that you don't have to really lean on it to get it to bend. I've written about it before so check that out for details. You are using a 6 oz hockey puck to generate whip, not your entire body weight bearing down into the ice...unless you want to buy a new stick every other week.
If you have a little extra cash, pick up a mid-level stick that's too whippy for you, like 10-20 flex below what you are currently using. This is going to really illustrate the feeling of loading and releasing the puck. Yes it will create some lag in your shot, but after improving your technique and moving back up in flex, you will have a much harder shot and a much quicker release.
2. Make sure your stick isn't too long. The longer your stick, the further away the puck is from the body, and the less power you can put into the shot. Don't believe me? Stand a few feet away from a sturdy desk or table, keep your feet still and lean over to push down on the desk as hard as you can. Now stand right next to it and push down as hard as you can. I'm going to guess that you put pushed a lot harder standing next to it, and you probably felt less strain in your shoulders and core. A short stick has other benefits such as improved puck control and passing. If you're still new to the game, I highly recommend cutting the stick below the chin in skates (possibly as much as 2" below if you're an offensive forward). You can always add a plug to a composite to bring it back up to height.
3. Check the lie of your blade. If you shoot the puck quite a bit, you want to make sure the bottom of your blade has good contact with the ice while in shooting position, not just with the stick in front of you standing up. If the stick is too long or the lie is too high, the toe of the blade is going to come off the ice and your shot is going to be a mess. Conversely if the stick is too short or the lie is too low, the heel of the blade will be off the ice and your shot will be a mess. Some blades are rockered (like the Sakic curve) to give you a lower lie near the heel for stickhandling and a higher lie near the toe for shooting in tight.
Now that your gear is in order, I've got some tips on shooting for power, accuracy, and quick release. At first, practice each step separately. Isolate the activity. Don't try to put the entire process together in one go. Work each step on its own, then start to put them together. That is the artistic side of shooting. The motion is fluid but combines so many movements and body parts that you need to work on your timing and experiment until you achieve your ideal shot. Then practice as much as you can so it is committed to memory and 100% automatic. You shouldn't have to think about it in the heat of the game.
1. Cup the puck at the start of your shot and draw the puck close to your body. This will let you put your weight and strength through the bottom hand, into the stick, and into the ice. That's where a lot of your power will come from. The closer the puck is to you while you shoot, the more power you can put into the shot, and the harder your shot will be (remember the table exercise).
Practice tip: Without a puck, roll your wrists to close up the blade and then scrape the ice. Start putting more and more pressure on the ice like you're digging in (use common sense and don't try to break your stick). Try doing this with the stick further away and closer to the body. Eventually, start with the blade back and away and pull it in close then scrap the ice. That's a killer move that changes the angle of the shot on the goalie AND gives you lots of power.
2. Work on your push-pull. Shooting is like a lever; the top hand is the fulcrum point around which the stick rotates and the bottom hand transfers the force into the stick. This isn't golf where you grab the stick by the very end and swat at the puck. As you fire the puck, you want to push toward the target with your bottom hand and pull back towards your body with your top hand. If you weren't doing this before, this could double your stick speed, giving you a quicker and harder shot.
Practice tip: Watch this video for a demonstration of the push-pull. Make this a fast and powerful motion. Remember to roll your wrists as you do this exercise. And don't hit anyone or anything while working on it.
3. Experiment with bottom hand placement. The further down the stick you keep your bottom hand, the more power you can get on your shot. Remember, you're trying to bend the stick, and the closer to the middle of the stick (or below with a low kickpoint stick), the more you will get the stick to bend with the same amount of force. But there is a tradeoff; the lower your bottom hand, the less rotation speed you will get. Less rotation speed means a slower shot. That's where you need to experiment.
Practice tip: Try the push-pull exercise in the above video with your hands close, and then try it again with your hands far apart. Then try shooting with your hands close and far apart. See what is comfortable and effective for you.
4. Make the puck spin. Think of a frisbee: it flies far and straight because it spins. To make a hockey puck spin, you need to make it roll down the blade. It doesn't have to be from the heel of the blade to the very toe; even a little bit of puck roll will improve your shot. Friction between the texture on the side of the puck and the hockey tape helps add rotation as it slides toward the toe.
Practice tip: stand on the ice with the puck in front of you. Touch the blade to the puck as if you were to pass it, and then pull both hands toward you. Play around and try to get the puck to spin as much as you can. Then start taking shots while working on the puck spin.
5. Flick your wrists as you release the puck. This adds just a bit more power to the shot and helps your accuracy as well. It is the equivalent of the toe flick at the end of the skating stride. Your big muscle groups have generated the force and this puts it over the top.
Practice tip: The best way I can describe this is like casting a fishing pole. You want to flick your forearms in a way that adds a snap or bullwhip effect. This video is the closest I can find to describing the motion, but I may film one down the road.
Like I said, you will want to practice each of these steps separately and then try putting it all together. Make it a fluid motion. Try shooting from different angles and situations. Eventually it will become a habit and you will start sniping goals like nobody's business.
Wednesday, October 26, 2011
Friday, October 7, 2011
Musings about Stick Length, Flex, Lie
With the coming hockey season, people are gearing up, and obviously you want a new twig. For beginners, in my opinion, there are two crucial mistakes made way too often:
- their stick is too stiff
- their stick is too long
They kind of play in to each other. Lots of beginners grab the cheapest composite they can find off the wall and tape it up. They don't look at the flex or cut it to length. Most of these guys are under 6' and use 85-100 flex sticks. They couldn't break a pane of glass with their shot.
These guys for the most part can't carry a puck, can't protect it, can't make quick moves with it. It's because their top hand is knocking into their body, preventing them from moving the puck freely. And keeping that puck further and further away makes for clumsy stickhandling and poor passes (imagine using a 20' long stick, it would be difficult to control the puck).
Also the shots aren't very good. With great technique, a long stick can let you use a stiffer flex and add a lot more power to the shot. But for the most part these guys are swatting at the puck or making glorified passes. It's no wonder most of their goals come from backdoor plays and what not.
If they used a shorter stick with some flex, they'd be able to use the whip of the stick, speed up the release, get on top of the puck, and get some velocity on their shots. One of my teammates is 5'6 maybe 140 soaking wet. He was using an 87 flex chopped way down. I gave him one of my 67 flex sticks, same curve and slightly shorter length. His shots damn near doubled in speed. He picked up an intermediate the next day and has greatly improved all aspects of the game.
Now the caveat.
Not everyone needs to use a shorter stick. If you have good puck control and technique, you can use a longer stick. Look at Marian Hossa or Pavel Datsyuk. Datsyuk used to use short sticks when he came into the league but made them longer and longer. He's possibly the best puck handler in the world and breaks the above rule, because he's so damn good. He can use the longer reach without suffering.
Defensemen often use long sticks too. Jared Spurgeon, a 20 year old 5'8 defenseman who made the Wild last year as a rookie and did a damn good job, uses a stick taller than he is (I'm the same height and checked out some of his game used sticks). He's not all-world like Datsyuk but he's better than a lot of NHL defensemen with the puck.
On to stick flex, once you cut down the stick, you'll need a whippier flex. Yeah I can use an 85 flex stick at full length at 5'8, but chop it down and it needs to be 70 flex. It's my opinion that 90% of your stick flex needs are determined by your stick length, not weight. It's because the more you cut a stick, the stiffer it gets. Proportionally, a lot of players use similar flexes once you account for length and original flex. I did a survey over at Mod Squad Hockey of over 70 players and the overwhelming majority of guys used a predictable flex for their stick length.
That's why I usually recommend:
5'6 - 65 flex
5'9 - 75 flex
6'0 - 85 flex
6'3 - 100 flex
This assumes you chop the stick down to 1-2" below the chin, which should be the shortest you'd need to go to get full puck control. If you can use a longer stick and give up some of that puck control, you could use a little stiffer stick.
For lie, it depends on your playing style. If you shoot the puck a lot with good technique, you'll probably want 5.5-6 lie. That's because you want the puck closer to your body to get more power on your shots, and that means a higher lie. If you're a passer you'll probably want a 5 lie or less. You'll want to be able to make moves with the puck further away from you. The closer to your body you play with the puck (shooting, playing on the boards, etc), the higher lie you need. Don't pick lie based on stick length, pick it based on your playing style.
You can read a lot more about hockey stick selection based on my older posts, but I wanted to reiterate and update my thoughts. Good luck for the 2011-12 season!
- their stick is too stiff
- their stick is too long
They kind of play in to each other. Lots of beginners grab the cheapest composite they can find off the wall and tape it up. They don't look at the flex or cut it to length. Most of these guys are under 6' and use 85-100 flex sticks. They couldn't break a pane of glass with their shot.
These guys for the most part can't carry a puck, can't protect it, can't make quick moves with it. It's because their top hand is knocking into their body, preventing them from moving the puck freely. And keeping that puck further and further away makes for clumsy stickhandling and poor passes (imagine using a 20' long stick, it would be difficult to control the puck).
Also the shots aren't very good. With great technique, a long stick can let you use a stiffer flex and add a lot more power to the shot. But for the most part these guys are swatting at the puck or making glorified passes. It's no wonder most of their goals come from backdoor plays and what not.
If they used a shorter stick with some flex, they'd be able to use the whip of the stick, speed up the release, get on top of the puck, and get some velocity on their shots. One of my teammates is 5'6 maybe 140 soaking wet. He was using an 87 flex chopped way down. I gave him one of my 67 flex sticks, same curve and slightly shorter length. His shots damn near doubled in speed. He picked up an intermediate the next day and has greatly improved all aspects of the game.
Now the caveat.
Not everyone needs to use a shorter stick. If you have good puck control and technique, you can use a longer stick. Look at Marian Hossa or Pavel Datsyuk. Datsyuk used to use short sticks when he came into the league but made them longer and longer. He's possibly the best puck handler in the world and breaks the above rule, because he's so damn good. He can use the longer reach without suffering.
Defensemen often use long sticks too. Jared Spurgeon, a 20 year old 5'8 defenseman who made the Wild last year as a rookie and did a damn good job, uses a stick taller than he is (I'm the same height and checked out some of his game used sticks). He's not all-world like Datsyuk but he's better than a lot of NHL defensemen with the puck.
On to stick flex, once you cut down the stick, you'll need a whippier flex. Yeah I can use an 85 flex stick at full length at 5'8, but chop it down and it needs to be 70 flex. It's my opinion that 90% of your stick flex needs are determined by your stick length, not weight. It's because the more you cut a stick, the stiffer it gets. Proportionally, a lot of players use similar flexes once you account for length and original flex. I did a survey over at Mod Squad Hockey of over 70 players and the overwhelming majority of guys used a predictable flex for their stick length.
That's why I usually recommend:
5'6 - 65 flex
5'9 - 75 flex
6'0 - 85 flex
6'3 - 100 flex
This assumes you chop the stick down to 1-2" below the chin, which should be the shortest you'd need to go to get full puck control. If you can use a longer stick and give up some of that puck control, you could use a little stiffer stick.
For lie, it depends on your playing style. If you shoot the puck a lot with good technique, you'll probably want 5.5-6 lie. That's because you want the puck closer to your body to get more power on your shots, and that means a higher lie. If you're a passer you'll probably want a 5 lie or less. You'll want to be able to make moves with the puck further away from you. The closer to your body you play with the puck (shooting, playing on the boards, etc), the higher lie you need. Don't pick lie based on stick length, pick it based on your playing style.
You can read a lot more about hockey stick selection based on my older posts, but I wanted to reiterate and update my thoughts. Good luck for the 2011-12 season!
Monday, November 8, 2010
Goaltending in the Playoffs: Fresh Goalies vs Workhorses
Right now there is a trend among NHL writers to downplay the importance of goaltending. We are in a new offensive era where goalies are easily replaceable. Is this the case? And what is the reasoning behind it?
I’m not a goaltender and don’t know much about the position, honestly. But what’s interesting to me is the high number of minutes they play every year. The goalie is in net for the full 60 minutes of the game, save for a handful of times they are pulled or go into overtime. And some goalies are starting over 75 games every year! They could be playing almost twice as many minutes as their team’s number one defenseman, and in a much more scrutinized position.
Most teams have a designated starting goalie and a backup who sees much less action. Some teams really lean on that starting goalie while others split the workload nearly evenly. Could it be that a more rested goalie can perform at the end of the grueling six-month season?
Since the lockout, let’s look at the top five goalies in terms of games played and how they did in the playoffs
2005-06:
1. Robert Luongo (75) - FLA - Did not qualify
2. Miikka Kiprusoff (74) - CGY - 3 wins, 2.24 GAA, .921 save
3. Martin Brodeur (73) - NJD - 5 wins, 2.25 GAA, .923 save
4. Marty Turco (68) - DAL - 1 win, 3.39 GAA, .868 save
5. Alex Auld (67) - VAN - Did not qualify
2006-07:
1. Brodeur (78) - NJD - 5 games, 2.44 GAA, .916 save
2. Luongo (76) - VAN - 5 games, 1.77 GAA, .941 save
3. Kiprusoff (74) - CGY - 2 games, 2.81 GAA, .929 save
4. Andrew Raycroft (72) - TOR - Did not qualify
5. Henrik Lundqvist (70) - NYR - 6 wins, 2.07 GAA, .924 save
2007-08:
1. Evgeni Nabokov (77) - SJS - 6 wins, 2.18 GAA, .907 save
2. Brodeur (77) - NJD - 1 win, 3.19 GAA, .891 save
3. Kiprusoff (76) - CGY - 2 wins, 3.21 GAA, .908 save
4. Ryan Miller (76) - BUF - Did not qualify
5. Luongo (73) - VAN - Did not qualify
2008-09:
1. Kiprusoff (76) - CGY - 2 wins, 3.52 GAA, .884 save
2. Marty Turco (74) - DAL - Did not qualify
3. Niklas Backstrom (71) - MIN - Did not qualify
4. Lundqvist (70) - NYR - 3 wins, 3.00 GAA, .908 save
5. Cam Ward (68) - CAR - Did not qualify
2009-10:
1. Brodeur (77) - NJD - 1 win, 3.01 GAA, .881 save
2. Kiprusoff (73) - CGY - Did not qualify
3. Lundqvist (73) - NYR - Did not qualify
4. Jonathan Quick (72) - LAK - 2 wins, 3.50 GAA, .884 save
5. Nabokov (71) - SJS - 8 wins, 2.56 GAA, .907 save
Over that five-year span, the top-5 goalies in terms of games played missed the playoffs entirely 10 times (40% of the time). During that time, only 5 goalies had a save percentage over .920 (20% of the time), and only once did a goalie turn in a statistically phenomenal postseason (Roberto Luongo in 2006-07).
Even more remarkable, only once did a top-5 goalie make it to the third round of the playoffs, Evgeni Nabokov last year, where the team imploded and was swept. Three of the past five Stanley Cup winning goaltenders weren’t even the starters at the beginning of that season (Ward, Osgood, Niemi).
Of course, numbers aren’t everything, but it sure seems to me that leaning on one goalie through the entire year is not a recipe for any kind of post-season success.
It will be interesting to see if coaches take note of this trend and split up that workload, but as of right now, a lot of goalies are still taking the overwhelming majority of their team’s starts, and if history proves correct, we should see a lot of “upsets” come April and May.
I’m not a goaltender and don’t know much about the position, honestly. But what’s interesting to me is the high number of minutes they play every year. The goalie is in net for the full 60 minutes of the game, save for a handful of times they are pulled or go into overtime. And some goalies are starting over 75 games every year! They could be playing almost twice as many minutes as their team’s number one defenseman, and in a much more scrutinized position.
Most teams have a designated starting goalie and a backup who sees much less action. Some teams really lean on that starting goalie while others split the workload nearly evenly. Could it be that a more rested goalie can perform at the end of the grueling six-month season?
Since the lockout, let’s look at the top five goalies in terms of games played and how they did in the playoffs
2005-06:
1. Robert Luongo (75) - FLA - Did not qualify
2. Miikka Kiprusoff (74) - CGY - 3 wins, 2.24 GAA, .921 save
3. Martin Brodeur (73) - NJD - 5 wins, 2.25 GAA, .923 save
4. Marty Turco (68) - DAL - 1 win, 3.39 GAA, .868 save
5. Alex Auld (67) - VAN - Did not qualify
2006-07:
1. Brodeur (78) - NJD - 5 games, 2.44 GAA, .916 save
2. Luongo (76) - VAN - 5 games, 1.77 GAA, .941 save
3. Kiprusoff (74) - CGY - 2 games, 2.81 GAA, .929 save
4. Andrew Raycroft (72) - TOR - Did not qualify
5. Henrik Lundqvist (70) - NYR - 6 wins, 2.07 GAA, .924 save
2007-08:
1. Evgeni Nabokov (77) - SJS - 6 wins, 2.18 GAA, .907 save
2. Brodeur (77) - NJD - 1 win, 3.19 GAA, .891 save
3. Kiprusoff (76) - CGY - 2 wins, 3.21 GAA, .908 save
4. Ryan Miller (76) - BUF - Did not qualify
5. Luongo (73) - VAN - Did not qualify
2008-09:
1. Kiprusoff (76) - CGY - 2 wins, 3.52 GAA, .884 save
2. Marty Turco (74) - DAL - Did not qualify
3. Niklas Backstrom (71) - MIN - Did not qualify
4. Lundqvist (70) - NYR - 3 wins, 3.00 GAA, .908 save
5. Cam Ward (68) - CAR - Did not qualify
2009-10:
1. Brodeur (77) - NJD - 1 win, 3.01 GAA, .881 save
2. Kiprusoff (73) - CGY - Did not qualify
3. Lundqvist (73) - NYR - Did not qualify
4. Jonathan Quick (72) - LAK - 2 wins, 3.50 GAA, .884 save
5. Nabokov (71) - SJS - 8 wins, 2.56 GAA, .907 save
Over that five-year span, the top-5 goalies in terms of games played missed the playoffs entirely 10 times (40% of the time). During that time, only 5 goalies had a save percentage over .920 (20% of the time), and only once did a goalie turn in a statistically phenomenal postseason (Roberto Luongo in 2006-07).
Even more remarkable, only once did a top-5 goalie make it to the third round of the playoffs, Evgeni Nabokov last year, where the team imploded and was swept. Three of the past five Stanley Cup winning goaltenders weren’t even the starters at the beginning of that season (Ward, Osgood, Niemi).
Of course, numbers aren’t everything, but it sure seems to me that leaning on one goalie through the entire year is not a recipe for any kind of post-season success.
It will be interesting to see if coaches take note of this trend and split up that workload, but as of right now, a lot of goalies are still taking the overwhelming majority of their team’s starts, and if history proves correct, we should see a lot of “upsets” come April and May.
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Hockey Equipment: An Updated Guide for Beginners and Intermediate Players
Hockey Equipment: An Updated Guide for Beginners and Intermediate Players
Update 2: I have updated the models for 2011 and tried to refine my thoughts further, differentiating between a minimum level of protection for beginners and a quality level of protection for intermediate players.
Update: Due to (un?) popular demand, I'm going to split the recommendations between beginners and intermediate players. I also dug through the major brands and gave a few specific recommendations. I still recommend that you go to a good local hockey shop and get fitted by a salesman and buy from them. First, you're supporting local hockey shops, and it's always easier to run down to the store to get something before a game than it is to order online and wait a week and pay shipping. Second, every brand and model fits differently, and you can't just go by your shirt or jean sizes.
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While I’m not an expert on hockey gear and don't work at a shop, I see a lot of questions about recommendations for hockey equipment for beginners.
This guide isn’t for the player who wants to skate at the outdoor rink once a year. I'm making the assumption that the person shopping for gear intends to play at least a couple times a month in some sort of pickup game, organized league, beginner’s school, stick and puck, whatever.
I define a beginner player as someone who has an interest and passion for the game and wants to play regularly. For the most part, protective equipment for this player will protect him from falling as he learns to skate and becomes comfortable on the ice. It will also protect from errant pucks and sticks which always seem to find the face or space between pads. As you improve on ice and face tougher competition, you may want to upgrade gear to intermediate levels for the additional protection and durability. Buying inexpensive gear at first isn’t a bad idea as you will learn what you do and do not want when you make an upgrade.
An intermediate player is one who is competent on his skates and regularly plays in some sort of pickup game or league. At this level, protective equipment is subject to a lot more wear and tear and durability is a larger concern. Shots are a lot harder and higher at this level and players are more physical and chippy, necessitating additional protection from slashes and contact.
Finally, when shopping for gear that comes in different colors, the safe bet is black. Most teams use black as the color of their helmets, gloves, and pants, and if you end up joining a team you don't want to have to get all new gear.
Skates
Beginners - $150+
e.g. Bauer X3.0, Bauer One40, CCM U+ 04, Easton EQ30, Reebok 6k
Intermediates - $300+
e.g. Bauer X5.0, Bauer One70, CCM U+ 10, Easton EQ40, Reebok 8k
Whatever your budget is, try and put the most money into your skates, and spend the most time trying them on. Skates can come as cheap as $50 on up to over $600. The more you spend, the more durable, lightweight, stiffer, and higher quality the skate. At about the $150 range, skates will have some type of composite outsole (rather than rubber), good quality holders and steel (so they won't chip and rust), and adequate stiffness. Closer to the $300 range, you will get almost all the features of a top end skate for half the price without noticing the difference. I do not recommend cheap skates under $150 as they are flimsy, not meant for heavy usage, and will likely fall apart or break down too easily.
Every brand has a different fit, most brands have different models that have different fits, and most models have different widths. The first thing to keep in mind is skates are usually 1-2 sizes smaller than shoe size. A good shop will measure you and look at your foot and pick out a few for you to try on. The heel/ankle pocket is the key to the skate. A foot that is locked into place allows you to skate better, no question. If it wobbles around, you're going to get blisters and pain and you will always feel some degree of unsteadiness on the ice.
Here are three simple tests you can do to when trying on a skate:
1. Pencil test - put your foot in the skate, kick your heels back into the skate, and pull the tongues forward. Try laying a pencil across the top of the skate behind the tongue and trace up and down. Ideally, you want your foot to just touch the tongue around the 3rd/4th eyelets. If there's a big gap, the skates might be too deep, and if your foot sticks out, the skates might be too shallow.
2. Heel lift - lace up the skates nice and snug, then stand up. Put one foot forward and shift your weight front to back. If you feel your heel lifting up, the skate might be too long or wide in the heel. Slide your foot forward and see if you can fit a finger behind your heel...if so the skates are too long.
3. Forefoot - with the skates laced up snug, leave them on for several minutes and/or walk around the store (assuming they have carpet and will let you). If you feel too much pinching, cramping, or pain in the front of the feet, you may need to have them stretched or go to a wider boot.
These are very rough guidelines...nothing beats a good shop with knowledgeable sales staff and a wide selection. But if your skate locks your heel/ankle into place and you can skate without pain, you will set yourself up for a much easier path to improving your ability to skate.
Buying a used skate is a great way to save money...be sure to check it thoroughly to make sure the boot isn't falling apart, the stitching isn't falling out, the holder is still secured tight, and the steel has some life left.
Helmet
Beginners/Intermediates - $60+
e.g. Bauer 5100, CCM Vector 08, Easton S9, Reebok 4k
The most important piece of protective gear is your helmet. After all, you only get one brain.
Contrary to some manufacturer claims, no helmet has been proven to prevent concussions; science has a long way to go to understand them still. The primary purpose is to prevent you from cracking open your skull and giving a little cushion upon impact. Most mid-price helmets have comfortable padding and will protect your skull adequately. Expensive helmets have additional padding for comfort. It should be noted that nearly every professional player at the highest levels use what we would consider mid-level helmets (check out pictures of your favorite players on ice…the helmet padding is probably yellow foam).
By far, the most important aspect of a helmet is how it fits your head. A helmet that is too big will slide around when you're falling, which is not going to do you any good. On the other hand, a helmet that's too small will pinch and cause pain and headaches. Most models have a fixed width and adjustable length, so try different brands, sizes, and adjust the fit.
I don't recommend a used helmet because any cracks or damage to the structure or foam seriously compromise the protection. And who wants to stick their head into a helmet that someone else has been sweating in? Be sure to replace the helmet if the padding gets cracked, hardens due to age/sweat, or if you have a severe collision.
Cage
Beginners/Intermediates - $35
e.g. Bauer 5100/7500, CCM 480, Easton S9, Reebok 5k
Assuming you're playing with other people, get a cage. Yes, the NHL'ers wear visors, but you're not getting paid to play hockey, and accidents happen. Sticks and pucks get up high and can not only knock out teeth and break noses, they can take out eyes. Cheap cages are often painted white or black and have thick bars that are distracting to the vision as well as heavy on your head. Spend a little more to get a cage with silver, oval-shaped bars that have the same protection but are thinner, lighter weight, and less distracting.
Be sure to check the fit with your helmet and make sure you get it installed properly.
Gloves
Beginners - $50
e.g. Bauer X20, Bauer One40, CCM U+ 06, Easton EQ10, Reebok 5k
Intermediates - $100
e.g. Bauer X40, Bauer 4-Roll, Bauer One80, CCM U+ 12, CCM 4-Roll PRO, Easton EQ50, Reebok 9k
For beginners, look for gloves with good foam padding, some kind of thumb lock (to prevent dislocated thumbs...ouch!), and a soft palm material. Intermediate players will want to find gloves with additional plastic inserts on the cuff and backroll/fingers to protect against slashes and flying pucks.
When trying on gloves grab a stick off the shelf and notice how they move with you. Do they slide around when stickhandling? Are the cuffs restricting your movement? Are the fingers uncomfortable when holding the stick? Do you like them tight or loose fitting? Most gloves will break in some, so if you are undecided between sizes or a tight or loose glove, I'd recommend going with the tighter model.
I don't like used gloves because they will almost always smell, which a sign of bacteria or mold. And you don't want to risk picking up a staph infection.
Elbow Pads
Beginners - $35
e.g. Bauer X30, Bauer One40, CCM U+ Fit07, Easton EQ30, Reebok 5k
Intermediates - $60
e.g. Bauer X40, Bauer One80, CCM U+ Fit09, Easton EQ50, Reebok 7k
A good pair of elbow pads is essential for learning to play hockey. You're going to fall, and often you will land right on the elbow. You shouldn't have to spend a lot of money to get a good fitting and protective elbow pad. Make sure there's plenty of cushion and a good hard cap to prevent fracture. Intermediate players will want to spend more on models with additional forearm protection to protect against slashes.
When you try on elbow pads, they shouldn't slide up and down the arm. Most quality pads will have a strap running across the elbow to lock them into place. You don't want gaps in protection, so be sure to try on the elbow pads with your gloves and make sure you don't have a large gap where the elbow pads end and the gloves begin. There are slash protectors you can wear to make up for this gap in coverage though, in case you have longer arms or prefer smaller equipment.
Used elbow pads that are very clean can save you some money. Just be sure all the straps and padding are in good condition.
Shoulder Pads
Beginners - $30
e.g. Bauer Supreme Classic, Sherwood 5030
Intermediates - $60
e.g. Bauer X30, Bauer One40, CCM U+ Fit05, Easton EQ20, Reebok 5k
There is a wide variety of shoulder pads on the market. For the beginner, lightweight recreational shoulder pads work just fine. There's enough padding to take the sting out of shots and caps to reduce shoulder injuries. Intermediate players should consider a mid-level pad with additional protection for the chest and spine, two areas where it is vital to get protection from pucks and sticks. These models will likely also have floating or sublimated pads that will allow the shoulders to move freely form the torso for better mobility.
When trying on the pads, hunch over, grab a stick, move around, turn your torso to either side, basically do anything you can to try and make the pads move around. You don't want a shoulder pad that will slide around or one that will inhibit your movement. Another consideration is how much air flow you'll get. A pad that covers a lot of the body and doesn't have ventilation will make you get incredibly hot on the ice and will be terribly uncomfortable. For women, they make shoulder pads that have some extra room in the chest; some women are fine using a men's pad and others find the women's pads much more comfortable.
Used shoulder pads are certainly an option to save some money if they are clean and in good shape.
Pants (or Breezers as we call them in the Midwest)
Beginners - $50
e.g. Bauer X30, Bauer One40, CCM U+ Fit05, Easton EQ20, Reebok 5k
Intermediates - $100
e.g. Bauer X40, Bauer One80, CCM U+ Fit09, Easton EQ30, Reebok 7k
For beginners, the primary purpose of hockey pants (or breezers) is to cushion your butt when you fall...which you will do a lot. Look for some pants with plenty of hip and tailbone padding. Intermediate players may want additional padding in the legs, kidneys, and spine to take the sting out of shots and crosschecks.
Ideally, the pants will cover your knees when standing up straight. As with other pads, try them on and move around every way you can think about to see if they slide around or are uncomfortable. If you're skinny or tall and require bigger pants, pick up some suspenders to keep them from moving around too much.
Used pants are some of the best deals around. Because players usually wear shorts under them, they are usually fairly clean. You also see a lot of high quality pants at used shops as high school players outgrow them (often in the local team colors). Just make sure the padding is all intact, the belt is in place, and the cover isn't ripped up.
Shin Guards
Beginners - $35
e.g. Bauer One35, CCM U+ Fit05, Reebok 3k
Intermediates - $65
e.g. Bauer One75, CCM U+ Fit09, Reebok 6k
Shin guards serve two main purposes: they protect your shins from pucks and sticks and give your knees padding when you fall. Beginners will want to find a pad with plenty of knee padding to cushion falls. Intermediate players should look for mid-level pads with additional padding in the back of the legs, which is really nice if you take a puck or stick in an otherwise unprotected area.
Shin pads should comfortably fit your knee, shin, and calf without sliding around. If the pads are longer, you can wear them outside the tongues of your skates (put the skates on first, then the shin pads) for extra protection. If they're short, you can put the tongues outside the shin pads to allow a little extra freedom of movement. Either way, be sure your entire shin is covered from knee to skate. And if they still move around a bit, you can tape them down after getting dressed.
Like elbow pads, you can find used shin guards, although I'd tend to shy away from something that has been on someone's sweaty legs.
Stick
Beginners - $35
e.g. Sherwood 5030
Intermediates - $150
e.g. Bauer X50, Bauer One80, CCM U+ CS, Easton EQ40, Reebok 8k
Though many are tempted to get a fancy composite stick like the pros use, a beginner should first use a good wood stick with a mild curve. The wood stick will build up muscles, give better feel for the puck, make it easier to learn to pass, and will be about the same for shooting until proper mechanics are learned.
Intermediate players can benefit from a composite stick if they have sufficient strength and proper technique. I've wrote far too extensively on the topic, so read through my several-part hockey stick selection guide.
Mouthguard - $10-20
Yes, you will want a mouthguard, even if you bought a full cage. It will protect your teeth from cracking if your jaw gets smacked shut and could help prevent concussion (although the science is not 100% on this yet). The cheaper boil-and-bite models will work fine if you're wearing a cage, but there are some great models that go on your bottom teeth only that make it easier to speake and breathe for just a bit more.
Jock - $20-30
A lot of the old school players still go for the old jock strap and cup, but I prefer a modern compression short jock. These are more comfortable and have velcro tabs to hold socks up, eliminating the need for the old garter belt. Plus, you can wear them to and from the rink under pants for quicker changing (most rinks don't have showers available). There are also loose jock shorts with the same features but a looser fit.
Jerseys - $20
Just a note to beginners, if you wear your authentic NHL jersey with a star player's name and number on the back, everyone on the bench will laugh at you. A better option is to pick up a simple white and dark jersey, because at open hockey teams are split up and you'll want one of each color. And get a white jersey, not light gray, or yellow, or a pastel color. If you're particularly ambitious, cruise around the used shops for obscure team and practice jerseys.
Socks - $10
You'll want one good pair of quality hockey socks (the ones that go outside your shin guards, not on your feet). Go wild and get whatever color you like...you do want to express yourself, don't you? As for your feet, thin socks are the way to go, especially if you haven't yet purchased skates. Skate socks can run quite a bit of money, but some thin dress socks will do the job just fine.
Tape - $10
You'll want to grab two kinds of tape: cloth tape, and shin tape. Cloth tape comes in white and black, and that's what you use to tape up your stick. Most people use white tape up top to prevent glove palms from getting discolored and black tape on the blade because it's the traditional color (although white is very popular too). Don't be that guy who uses camouflage tape. Shin tape is made of plastic and is more flexible (prevents you from cutting off blood flow). It's used over the socks to keep shin guards on tight (most players will tape below the knee or at the top of the calf muscle, some at the bottom of the calf as well). Get plenty of tape unless you like driving to the store a lot.
Bag - $40-60
Now that you've got all your shiny new gear, you'll need a bag to put it all in. I recommend finding a bag that has skate pockets as well as at least one extra outside pocket for jerseys. Even better, a second outside pocket that can hold your helmet, and a small accessory pocket for extra tape, a screwdriver, some change for a vending machine, etc. Cheap bags will likely rip and fall apart, so if you can spend a little more money on a quality bag, you will save a lot of money in the long run. I personally use a backpack bag because I have to trek up and down apartment stairs and it's great for getting into narrow rink doors.
That's it! Now you should know what to look for when picking up all your gear.
Friday, May 21, 2010
Minnesota Wild 2009-10 Final Grades
Minnesota Wild 2009-10 Final Grades
CENTERS
Mikko Koivu #9 C
80gp 22g 49a 71pts -2 50 PIM
Mikko Koivu was given the honor of being the Wild's first full-time captain this year, and he responded with career highs in goals and points. Mikko was expected to form a 1-2 scoring punch with newly acquired RW Martin Havlat, but the experiment failed likely due to a difference in playing style and speed. He returned with familiar linemates LW Andrwe Brunette and RW Antti Miettinen and provided steady scoring, playmaking, and responsible defensive play.
While it can be debated whether or not he is a true top line center, Koivu definitely is the Wild's best player night in and night out. He is the face of the franchise, and should hopefully be locked down with a long-term contract this summer.
Final Grade: A
Kyle Brodziak #21 C
82gp 9g 23a 32pts -3 22 PIM
Obviously there is quite the dropoff between the Wild's top scoring center and the next due to the departure of Eric Belanger. Kyle Brodziak was brought in as a 4th line RW who could take draws, and he ended up spending a lot of time on the second and third lines due to injuries. He is an effective penalty killer, has good speed, and can chip in some offense, but even with the highest quality linemates he lacks the hands and ability to score at a high level.
Coach Todd Richards did not employ a traditional third "checking" line to match against the other team, and if he continues to do this, Brodziak would be a good fourth line center to provide energy as well as kill penalties.
Final Grade: B-
Andrew Ebbett #16 C
49GP 8g 6a 14pts -8 6 PIM
With the Wild's players dropping like flies to injury, Andrew Ebbett was snagged off waivers. He bounced from Anaheim to Chicago before coming to Minnesota, and immediately found some chemistry on the Wild's "second" line with LW Guillaume Latendresse and RW Martin Havlat. Unfortunately, he suffered a concussion, missed quite a bit of time, and was unable to regain that second line center role.
Ebbett was a good pickup for the Wild, chipping in offensively, providing a lot of speed, and drawing a lot of penalties. Unfortunately, he's too small to play a role other than scoring, and his lack of high end talent means he will have trouble sticking in the NHL. He could definitely return to the Wild as a free agent with the lack of centers, but I don't expect him to be a big impact player.
Final Grade: C+
James Sheppard #51 C
64gp 2g 4a 6pts -14 38 PIM
Former Wild Assistant GM Tommy Thompson predicted this year would be a breakout one for former 9th overall pick James Sheppard, and scoring three goals in the preseason certainly bode well. But he took several, SEVERAL steps back and put up horrendous numbers in his worst NHL campaign. Sheppard couldn't get off the fourth line when he was in the lineup and spent many nights in the press box. His skating seems very slow and labored, and he is too flustered with the puck to take advantage of scoring chances. Even worse, his defensive play took a nosedive this year, robbing him of one role that he had under coach Jacques Lemaire.
The future is very bleak for this young player. He may be qualified by the Wild, but he would make a good amount of salary for very little production. Furthermore, he would likely be plucked off waivers if sent to the minors, which would mean the Wild need to either trade him this summer, give him one last shot, or cut him loose.
Final Grade: F
Casey Wellman #17 C
12gp 1g 3a 4pts -2 0 PIM
Although the state of Minnesota is a hotbed for college hockey, former GM Doug Risebrough routinely failed to acquire quality college free agents. Rookie GM Chuck Fletcher scored one of the most promising undrafted players in Casey Wellman, who joined the Wild for the remainder of the season. Wellman has tremendous speed and a great shot, but his wiry frame meant he was knocked around quite a bit in the offensive zone.
With the lack of centers under contract, Wellman has every opportunity to make the big club next year, and could eventually grow into the second line center the Wild so desperately need. But I expect him to play a third or fourth line role as he gets his feet wet and adjusts his mind and body to the NHL game.
Final Grade: B-
Cody Almond #23 C
7gp 1g 0a 1pts -3 9 PIM
After spending most of his first professional year in Houston, Cody Almond was called up to the Wild due to injuries. He provided a good amount of energy and speed and physical play as well. It took some time for him to adjust to the AHL but he became a fan favorite due to his hard work and eventually started scoring. I expect he will need a similar adjustment period to the NHL, but will likely start next year in Houston. He has the upside to be a third or fourth line center and may be good role player in the NHL.
Final Grade: C+
Closing Thoughts: After Koivu, the Wild's center depth is paper thin. Brodziak is a good fourth liner, and Wellman may grow into a scorer at the NHL, but they need at least one more quality center.
Center Grade: C+
LEFT WINGS
Andrew Brunette #15 LW
82gp 25g 36a 61pts -5 12 PIM
The Wild's ironman has played through more pain than imaginable and, despite having a knee that's held together with duct tape and a prayer, put up big points on a little contract. He's slowed down quite a bit, but his hands are as good as ever, and he is amazing to watch with the puck on the boards.
Bruno has one season left on his very cap friendly deal, and will likely play alongside Koivu once again. At some point age and injuries will catch up with him, but I wouldn't put it past him to put up at least 25 goals and 50 points next year.
Final Grade: A
Guillaume Latendresse #48 LW
55gp 25g 12a 37pts +1 12 PIM
After putting up a measly two goals and one assist in the first 23 games of the season with Montreal, Latendresse was traded to the Wild for the talented-yet-inconsistent winger Benoit Pouliot. Almost immediately he found chemistry with RW Martin Havlat and put up goals and points at an incredculous pace. He also used his big body to knock down opponents, giving the Wild their first true power forward.
Lats seems to be relieved to play in a much friendlier atmosphere than the high pressure hometown of Montreal, but the big question will be if he continues to score at a very high pace or if his totals come back to earth. He will be a restricted free agent and the type of deal he signs will be a sign of management's thoughts on his future performance.
Final Grade: A
Cal Clutteruck #22 LW
74gp 13g 8a 21pts -8 52 PIM
Clutterbuck led the league in hits last year, and he also showed some scoring upside. This year, he was hampered by injury, but played through quite a bit of pain to come back and help his team. He continued to play physical and again led the league in hits, and improved marginally his goal scoring.
Cal gives the Wild another great role player, an agitator who draws more penalties than he takes. He signed a nice two-year deal, so hopefully he continues to improve his scoring and provide the energy that has made him a fan favorite.
Final Grade: B
Robbie Earl #28 LW
32gp 6g 0a 6pts +1 6 PIM
Long time minor leaguer Robbie Earl came to the Wild via trade last year but spent most of the time in Houston. Because of injuries, he shuffled quite a bit between the big team and the minor leagues, but he provided a bit of goal scoring, a lot of speed, and a good amount of energy.
Earl is a free agent this summer, but could definitely challenge for a fourth line spot. He has gained the trust of the coaches and showed that he could have a future in this league.
Final Grade: B-
Derek Boogaard #24 LW
57gp 0g 4a 4pts -12 105 PIM
The Boogeyman entertains Wild fans with big hits and big punches, but has no offensive ability and frequently battles injuries. Coaches seem to like him and he seems like a good teammate, but on a team that's starved for offense, it's going to be a stretch to give a decent contract and roster spot to a very limited role player.
Final Grade: D
Closing Thoughts: The Wild have two high quality scoring left wingers as well as a solid third liner in Clutterbuck, making it one of their strongest positions. A Colton Gillies or Robbie Earl on the fourth line should give the Wild some speed and energy and solidify the position for next year.
Left Wing Grade: B
RIGHT WINGS
Martin Havlat #14 RW
73gp 18g 36a 54pts -19 34 PIM
Fresh off a big (for the Wild, at least) free agency contract this summer, Martin Havlat was expected to shoulder a big load of the offense. He also had the misfortune of coming to a team that lost a dynamic RW goal scorer in Marian Gaborik. A slow start and injuries limited his offense to only two goals and seven assists in the first 19 games. But coming back from injury, he found a new linemate in Guillaume Latendresse and put up points at his usual 25 goal and 50 assist pace.
It seems everyone is calling Havlat a disappointment, but my belief is he was attempting to play through an injury early on and couldn't get it going until it healed. He is a solid player, definitely not elite level, but he brings the skill of this team up and with some scoring depth, could really be a game-changer for the Wild.
Final Grade: B
Antti Miettinen #20 RW
79gp 20g 22a 42pts -2 44 PIM
Miettinen has found the oddly fortunate position of being the only RW who can play with Mikko Koivu. No matter who the Wild seem to have on the roster, no matter the coach, "Mittens" seems to win the job. This year, he had career numbers of 20 goals and 22 assists, but seemed to miss the net twice as often as he hit it.
Until the Wild acquire a top line sniper to play alongside Koivu, Miettinen can either be considered a disappointment (top line player with great linemates putting up about 40 points) or a big success (overachieving third liner playing high minutes and decent production). Depending on the Wild's offseason, he could once again be in that top line spot.
Final Grade: B-
Owen Nolan #11 RW
73gp 16g 17a 33pts -12 40 PIM
The only Irishman playing in the NHL, Owen Nolan has provided a great amount of leadership and some scoring to the team. However, his age is catching up with him and the high tempo system may not be suiting him anymore. Nolan asked to not be traded at the deadline (more or less) to help the team win a playoff spot, which appears to be a mistake for both parties.
With basically his final year of NHL play ahead of him and free agency approaching, Nolan has stated he wants to see what the Wild's offseason plans are before making a decision. My guess is he will try one last time to get a Stanley Cup ring with a contender, which is, unfortunately, somewhere else.
Final Grade: C+
Chuck Kobasew #12 RW
42gp 9g 5a 14pts -9 16 PIM
With the team starting out as bad as anyone could have imagined, Fletcher sought to shake things up with a trade early on. Kobasew was acquired for a 2nd round pick (2011), a decent prospect, and an AHL'er. Until this year, he has been a reliable 20 goal, 40 point scorer, but he was incredibly streaky and missed much of the year with a serious knee injury.
Kobasew has good speed and the ability to score dirty goals, but he is going to need linemates that can create those scoring chances. He has one year left on his contract, so hopefully the Wild can benefit from the contract year boost.
Final Grade: C
Pierre-Marc Bouchard #96 RW
1gp 0g 0a 0pts EVEN 2 PIM
Bouchard spent much of the summer recovering from a concussion that he never actually got over. He hoped to win the second line center position in training camp and played one game, but looked incredibly out of sync, and was immediately shelved for the remainder of the season. To this point, he has not shown much, if any, signs of recovery.
Despite being panned by much of the Wild fanbase for his lack of shooting and shying from physical play, Bouchard does possess great on-ice vision and passing ability and has good speed and skill with the puck. The Wild can only hope for the best in his recovery, and, even if he never plays hockey again, I sincerely hope he suffers no permanent damage as a result of the concussion.
Final Grade: Incomplete
Closing Thoughts: After Havlat, the Wild lack scoring along the right wing. A top line RW sniper is a need almost as much as a second line center, and without any prospects in the system, the Wild need to find an answer via trade or free agency.
Right Wing Grade: C+
DEFENSE
Marek Zidlicky #3 D
78gp 6g 37a 43pts -16 67 PIM
Marek Zidlicky had a very up and down year with the Wild. Entering the last year of his contract, he proved to be one of the few defensive threats on the team. He also represent his home country of the Czech Republic in the Olympics, in which he did a fantastic job (as he often does in international play). Eventually, he signed a big extension with the Wild. Unfortunately, Zidlicky's spotty defensive awareness gave up quite a few scoring chances and goals this year. He also had an injury down the stretch in which he played some of his worst hockey in a Wild uniform.
With the contract extension, Zidlicky will need to continue to provide offense on a lackluster blueline. If coach Todd Richards limits his ice time in certain situations (defensive zone faceoffs, penalty killing, etc) as Lemaire did, Zidlicky's defensive gaffs can be controlled.
Final Grade: B-
Brent Burns #8 D
47gp 3g 17a 20pts -15 32 PIM
After missing much of last year with injury and a concussion, Brent Burns started the season absolutely horrible. He was rushing the puck too frequently, giving up odd man rushes, and seemed to have too much freedom for his own good. Then he went out with a concussion and missed a fair amount of time again.
Mysteriously, he returned from a "thing" that he got "something" for, and started playing much better. He had more control, picked his spots better, and gave the Wild a much needed scoring threat from the point on the power play.
Burns has two years left on his contract before becoming a UFA, and he will need to prove he can stay healthy, produce at the level he did two years ago, and play strong defense. He has every physical gift a player could ever want, size, speed, hands, vision, and a shot. If he can get the mental side of his game together, he can be one of the best D-men in the league.
Final Grade: B-
Nick Schultz #55 D
80gp 1g 19a 20pts -8 43 PIM
This offseason, Nick Schultz became the longest tenured player for the Wild, and with a lucrative contract was expected to have a bigger offensive role than he did under defensive-minded coach Jacques Lemaire. But while his offensive production did increase, he took quite a step back defensively and was relegated to third-pairing duty for much of the year. Schultz is a defensive defenseman who has decent mobility and is adequate offensively, but when asked to do too much seems to struggle.
To be honest, it would be in the Wild's best interest to find a new home for Schultz. He has never been a dominant player at his position and has a fairly high cap hit for what he brings to the team. There are several defensive prospects coming up who may be able to fill his role down the road. If he remains with the team, he will have to really impress to get a top four spot again, and he should focus on playing a shutdown role as Greg Zanon does.
Final Grade: C
Greg Zanon #6 D
81gp 2g 13a 15pts -10 36 PIM
I'll admit I had no clue who Greg Zanon was when he was signed this past summer, but all he's done is play his heart out, block shuts, play strong defense, and show a lot of character and leading by example. Zanon has decent mobility and makes an adequate first pass, but he's never going to be an offensive marvel. His job is to take defend against the other team, and he does a great job.
Zanon is under a nice contract for two more years, and he should get plenty of even strength and penalty killing time. With former Nashville teammate Marek Zidlicky under contract as well, they will likely be paired together going forward.
Final Grade: A
Shane Hnidy #34 D
70gp 2g 12a 14pts -6 66 PIM
Brought in to increase the physical toughness of the blueline and clear the crease, "Sheriff" Shane Hnidy has been a decent 6th/7th defenseman but not entirely remarkable. He seemed to show a good amount of poise with the puck from time to time and has a decent point shot, but he has a lot of defensive lapses that outweigh his strengths. As solid as he may have once been, Hnidy will likely not return next year to open a roster spot for a young and hungry defensive prospect.
Final Grade: C
Cam Barker #45 D
19gp 1g 6a 7pts -2 10 PIM
The third overall pick behind Alex Ovechkin and Evgeni Malkin has had a rocky start to his career. After a season of good production with Chicago, he took a step back and found himself stuck behind a very deep blueline. Fletcher saw something he liked and traded soon-to-be free agent Kim Johnsson and defensive prospect Nick Leddy for the young Barker in hopes that he would flourish with a bigger role. With Chicago, Barker was a powerplay specialist who never killed penalties and was a third pairing option even strength. In his limited time this season, his ice time and responsibility sky rocketed, moving to the "top" pairing with Brent Burns, and even killing penalties.
Barker has shown some promise and could be a great partner for Burns, who had his best season paired with another big body in Keith Carney. He has a great point shot and can play physical, but he will have to consciously adjust his game to an expanded role, and perhaps expecting him to do a 180 in such a short time this past season was too much, as he struggled quite a bit. I expect he will work hard this offseason and should start next year better after settling into the new team, new city, and new system.
Final Grade: C
Clayton Stoner #7 D
8gp 0g 2a 2pts +1 12 PIM
It's been so long since Clayton Stoner was healthy and playing for the Wild that I honestly don't remember much about his play. I do recall being impressed by his mobility and puck movement for a so-called defensive defenseman, but his season ended with a nagging injury that did not improve through the year. He was, however, rewarded with a contract extension, so he should likely be with the team next season.
Final Grade: Incomplete
John Scott #36 D
51gp 1g 1a 2pts -3 90 PIM
Big John Scott was one of former GM Doug Risebrough's final signings before being relieved of his duties, and the guaranteed contract may have tied Chuck Fletcher's hands a bit when it came to the roster. But Scott did an adequate job playing defense, playing some wing, and of course dropping the gloves. One of the few people to be able to look down (although slightly) at Derek Boogaard, he did bring a physical element to the team. I actually prefer Scott to Boogaard because I feel his contributions with his gloves on are more substantial, but it's entirely possible he could walk as a free agent this summer if the team chooses to keep the fan favorite.
Final Grade: C
Nate Prosser #39 D
3gp 0g 1a 1pts +2 8 PIM
Defenseman Nate Prosser was signed as a college free agent towards the end of the season and expected to watch the games from the pressbox, but got a few chances to play due to injuries. In all honesty, the Wild were so terrible late in the year that I barely watched the games, but Prosser looked VERY mobile and impressive for a rookie fresh out of college, even getting power play time and actually more ice time than many of the regulars.
The logjam at defense next year means Prosser will likely start in Houston, but if he continues to outplay the veterans, I wouldn't be surprised to see him in the lineup on opening day. He could definitely be another free agent steal for the new GM.
Final Grade: Incomplete
Closing Thoughts: The blueline looked to be a position of strength coming into this season, but injuries and poor performance (possibly due to the new system) have made it a position of weakness for the Wild. Because most of the big minute guys are locked up for next season, they will have to grow and improve their play rather than rely on a new face. But with a few defensive prospect studs likely starting their professional careers next fall, there is some hope. Until then, let's hope coach Todd Richards either adjusts his system to the players or vice versa.
Defensive Grade: C+
GOALIES
Niklas Backstrom #32 G
60gp 26w .903 save 2.72 GAA
All-Star goalie Nik Backstrom took advantage of his Vezina finalist performance last year and earned a huge $6m contract. But the real test of his ability came when defensive scheming Jacques Lemaire was replaced by a run-and-gun offensive coach in Todd Richards. For some reason, while the entire team struggled mightily early on, Backstrom played fairly well, but as the team improved marginally, his play took a dive. The usually steady and unflappable goalie had his first slump in the NHL, and regularly was letting in 4 or more goals per game.
Perhaps the poor play was due to injury, as he had back and groin injuries in the middle of the season which kept him off the ice for more games than expected. But with his large contract and no-trade clause, Backstrom will hopefully rebound next year, especially if the team in front of him improves their defensive play.
Final Grade: C
Josh Harding #37 G
25gp 9w .905 save 3.05 GAA
Poor Josh Harding. After paying his dues in the minor leagues for two years waiting for a chance to win an NHL job, he got injured in training camp and lost out to then-unknown Niklas Backstrom, who eventually became the starter. Now with a chance to get more ice time in a dynamic system that plays more to his strength (athletic and instinctive rather than positional), Harding gets hot, starts winning games, and then goes down with injury once again.
Although he struggled early in the year, his play with Backstrom out of the lineup was very inspired and showed the talent that has been promised since he was drafted back in 2002. Harding has stated that he wants a starter's job, and GM Chuck Fletcher seems to have shopped him around, but nobody is interested in a goalie who has injury concerns and hasn't proven much at the NHL level. He may be an attractive piece of a trade this summer, but it's more likely he will have to spend another year to prove his worth.
Final Grade: B-
Closing Thoughts: Another position of strength turned weak as the Wild's goalies were exposed in a system that gave up too many rushes as well as injuries that caused both minor league goaltenders to come up for a while. Backstrom will again be the starter next season, and Harding will likely back him up again. Wild fans can only hope the defense improves to give the goalies a chance to rebound.
Goaltending Grade: C+
Team Thoughts: Well that was a depressing look at the team. The Wild have a few shining stars and players who could definitely rebound next year, and injuries were a big factor in the Wild finishing well out of the playoffs. But there are some major holes to fill and not a lot of cap room or roster spots to do it. If Coach Todd Richards can make some adjustments to his system and the Wild players start out stronger than last season, they can contend for one of the final playoff spots. But if we continue to see minor leaguers suit up for so many games and the team ignoring the defensive part of the game, they'll be golfing early again next year.
Final Wild Grade: C+
CENTERS
Mikko Koivu #9 C
80gp 22g 49a 71pts -2 50 PIM
Mikko Koivu was given the honor of being the Wild's first full-time captain this year, and he responded with career highs in goals and points. Mikko was expected to form a 1-2 scoring punch with newly acquired RW Martin Havlat, but the experiment failed likely due to a difference in playing style and speed. He returned with familiar linemates LW Andrwe Brunette and RW Antti Miettinen and provided steady scoring, playmaking, and responsible defensive play.
While it can be debated whether or not he is a true top line center, Koivu definitely is the Wild's best player night in and night out. He is the face of the franchise, and should hopefully be locked down with a long-term contract this summer.
Final Grade: A
Kyle Brodziak #21 C
82gp 9g 23a 32pts -3 22 PIM
Obviously there is quite the dropoff between the Wild's top scoring center and the next due to the departure of Eric Belanger. Kyle Brodziak was brought in as a 4th line RW who could take draws, and he ended up spending a lot of time on the second and third lines due to injuries. He is an effective penalty killer, has good speed, and can chip in some offense, but even with the highest quality linemates he lacks the hands and ability to score at a high level.
Coach Todd Richards did not employ a traditional third "checking" line to match against the other team, and if he continues to do this, Brodziak would be a good fourth line center to provide energy as well as kill penalties.
Final Grade: B-
Andrew Ebbett #16 C
49GP 8g 6a 14pts -8 6 PIM
With the Wild's players dropping like flies to injury, Andrew Ebbett was snagged off waivers. He bounced from Anaheim to Chicago before coming to Minnesota, and immediately found some chemistry on the Wild's "second" line with LW Guillaume Latendresse and RW Martin Havlat. Unfortunately, he suffered a concussion, missed quite a bit of time, and was unable to regain that second line center role.
Ebbett was a good pickup for the Wild, chipping in offensively, providing a lot of speed, and drawing a lot of penalties. Unfortunately, he's too small to play a role other than scoring, and his lack of high end talent means he will have trouble sticking in the NHL. He could definitely return to the Wild as a free agent with the lack of centers, but I don't expect him to be a big impact player.
Final Grade: C+
James Sheppard #51 C
64gp 2g 4a 6pts -14 38 PIM
Former Wild Assistant GM Tommy Thompson predicted this year would be a breakout one for former 9th overall pick James Sheppard, and scoring three goals in the preseason certainly bode well. But he took several, SEVERAL steps back and put up horrendous numbers in his worst NHL campaign. Sheppard couldn't get off the fourth line when he was in the lineup and spent many nights in the press box. His skating seems very slow and labored, and he is too flustered with the puck to take advantage of scoring chances. Even worse, his defensive play took a nosedive this year, robbing him of one role that he had under coach Jacques Lemaire.
The future is very bleak for this young player. He may be qualified by the Wild, but he would make a good amount of salary for very little production. Furthermore, he would likely be plucked off waivers if sent to the minors, which would mean the Wild need to either trade him this summer, give him one last shot, or cut him loose.
Final Grade: F
Casey Wellman #17 C
12gp 1g 3a 4pts -2 0 PIM
Although the state of Minnesota is a hotbed for college hockey, former GM Doug Risebrough routinely failed to acquire quality college free agents. Rookie GM Chuck Fletcher scored one of the most promising undrafted players in Casey Wellman, who joined the Wild for the remainder of the season. Wellman has tremendous speed and a great shot, but his wiry frame meant he was knocked around quite a bit in the offensive zone.
With the lack of centers under contract, Wellman has every opportunity to make the big club next year, and could eventually grow into the second line center the Wild so desperately need. But I expect him to play a third or fourth line role as he gets his feet wet and adjusts his mind and body to the NHL game.
Final Grade: B-
Cody Almond #23 C
7gp 1g 0a 1pts -3 9 PIM
After spending most of his first professional year in Houston, Cody Almond was called up to the Wild due to injuries. He provided a good amount of energy and speed and physical play as well. It took some time for him to adjust to the AHL but he became a fan favorite due to his hard work and eventually started scoring. I expect he will need a similar adjustment period to the NHL, but will likely start next year in Houston. He has the upside to be a third or fourth line center and may be good role player in the NHL.
Final Grade: C+
Closing Thoughts: After Koivu, the Wild's center depth is paper thin. Brodziak is a good fourth liner, and Wellman may grow into a scorer at the NHL, but they need at least one more quality center.
Center Grade: C+
LEFT WINGS
Andrew Brunette #15 LW
82gp 25g 36a 61pts -5 12 PIM
The Wild's ironman has played through more pain than imaginable and, despite having a knee that's held together with duct tape and a prayer, put up big points on a little contract. He's slowed down quite a bit, but his hands are as good as ever, and he is amazing to watch with the puck on the boards.
Bruno has one season left on his very cap friendly deal, and will likely play alongside Koivu once again. At some point age and injuries will catch up with him, but I wouldn't put it past him to put up at least 25 goals and 50 points next year.
Final Grade: A
Guillaume Latendresse #48 LW
55gp 25g 12a 37pts +1 12 PIM
After putting up a measly two goals and one assist in the first 23 games of the season with Montreal, Latendresse was traded to the Wild for the talented-yet-inconsistent winger Benoit Pouliot. Almost immediately he found chemistry with RW Martin Havlat and put up goals and points at an incredculous pace. He also used his big body to knock down opponents, giving the Wild their first true power forward.
Lats seems to be relieved to play in a much friendlier atmosphere than the high pressure hometown of Montreal, but the big question will be if he continues to score at a very high pace or if his totals come back to earth. He will be a restricted free agent and the type of deal he signs will be a sign of management's thoughts on his future performance.
Final Grade: A
Cal Clutteruck #22 LW
74gp 13g 8a 21pts -8 52 PIM
Clutterbuck led the league in hits last year, and he also showed some scoring upside. This year, he was hampered by injury, but played through quite a bit of pain to come back and help his team. He continued to play physical and again led the league in hits, and improved marginally his goal scoring.
Cal gives the Wild another great role player, an agitator who draws more penalties than he takes. He signed a nice two-year deal, so hopefully he continues to improve his scoring and provide the energy that has made him a fan favorite.
Final Grade: B
Robbie Earl #28 LW
32gp 6g 0a 6pts +1 6 PIM
Long time minor leaguer Robbie Earl came to the Wild via trade last year but spent most of the time in Houston. Because of injuries, he shuffled quite a bit between the big team and the minor leagues, but he provided a bit of goal scoring, a lot of speed, and a good amount of energy.
Earl is a free agent this summer, but could definitely challenge for a fourth line spot. He has gained the trust of the coaches and showed that he could have a future in this league.
Final Grade: B-
Derek Boogaard #24 LW
57gp 0g 4a 4pts -12 105 PIM
The Boogeyman entertains Wild fans with big hits and big punches, but has no offensive ability and frequently battles injuries. Coaches seem to like him and he seems like a good teammate, but on a team that's starved for offense, it's going to be a stretch to give a decent contract and roster spot to a very limited role player.
Final Grade: D
Closing Thoughts: The Wild have two high quality scoring left wingers as well as a solid third liner in Clutterbuck, making it one of their strongest positions. A Colton Gillies or Robbie Earl on the fourth line should give the Wild some speed and energy and solidify the position for next year.
Left Wing Grade: B
RIGHT WINGS
Martin Havlat #14 RW
73gp 18g 36a 54pts -19 34 PIM
Fresh off a big (for the Wild, at least) free agency contract this summer, Martin Havlat was expected to shoulder a big load of the offense. He also had the misfortune of coming to a team that lost a dynamic RW goal scorer in Marian Gaborik. A slow start and injuries limited his offense to only two goals and seven assists in the first 19 games. But coming back from injury, he found a new linemate in Guillaume Latendresse and put up points at his usual 25 goal and 50 assist pace.
It seems everyone is calling Havlat a disappointment, but my belief is he was attempting to play through an injury early on and couldn't get it going until it healed. He is a solid player, definitely not elite level, but he brings the skill of this team up and with some scoring depth, could really be a game-changer for the Wild.
Final Grade: B
Antti Miettinen #20 RW
79gp 20g 22a 42pts -2 44 PIM
Miettinen has found the oddly fortunate position of being the only RW who can play with Mikko Koivu. No matter who the Wild seem to have on the roster, no matter the coach, "Mittens" seems to win the job. This year, he had career numbers of 20 goals and 22 assists, but seemed to miss the net twice as often as he hit it.
Until the Wild acquire a top line sniper to play alongside Koivu, Miettinen can either be considered a disappointment (top line player with great linemates putting up about 40 points) or a big success (overachieving third liner playing high minutes and decent production). Depending on the Wild's offseason, he could once again be in that top line spot.
Final Grade: B-
Owen Nolan #11 RW
73gp 16g 17a 33pts -12 40 PIM
The only Irishman playing in the NHL, Owen Nolan has provided a great amount of leadership and some scoring to the team. However, his age is catching up with him and the high tempo system may not be suiting him anymore. Nolan asked to not be traded at the deadline (more or less) to help the team win a playoff spot, which appears to be a mistake for both parties.
With basically his final year of NHL play ahead of him and free agency approaching, Nolan has stated he wants to see what the Wild's offseason plans are before making a decision. My guess is he will try one last time to get a Stanley Cup ring with a contender, which is, unfortunately, somewhere else.
Final Grade: C+
Chuck Kobasew #12 RW
42gp 9g 5a 14pts -9 16 PIM
With the team starting out as bad as anyone could have imagined, Fletcher sought to shake things up with a trade early on. Kobasew was acquired for a 2nd round pick (2011), a decent prospect, and an AHL'er. Until this year, he has been a reliable 20 goal, 40 point scorer, but he was incredibly streaky and missed much of the year with a serious knee injury.
Kobasew has good speed and the ability to score dirty goals, but he is going to need linemates that can create those scoring chances. He has one year left on his contract, so hopefully the Wild can benefit from the contract year boost.
Final Grade: C
Pierre-Marc Bouchard #96 RW
1gp 0g 0a 0pts EVEN 2 PIM
Bouchard spent much of the summer recovering from a concussion that he never actually got over. He hoped to win the second line center position in training camp and played one game, but looked incredibly out of sync, and was immediately shelved for the remainder of the season. To this point, he has not shown much, if any, signs of recovery.
Despite being panned by much of the Wild fanbase for his lack of shooting and shying from physical play, Bouchard does possess great on-ice vision and passing ability and has good speed and skill with the puck. The Wild can only hope for the best in his recovery, and, even if he never plays hockey again, I sincerely hope he suffers no permanent damage as a result of the concussion.
Final Grade: Incomplete
Closing Thoughts: After Havlat, the Wild lack scoring along the right wing. A top line RW sniper is a need almost as much as a second line center, and without any prospects in the system, the Wild need to find an answer via trade or free agency.
Right Wing Grade: C+
DEFENSE
Marek Zidlicky #3 D
78gp 6g 37a 43pts -16 67 PIM
Marek Zidlicky had a very up and down year with the Wild. Entering the last year of his contract, he proved to be one of the few defensive threats on the team. He also represent his home country of the Czech Republic in the Olympics, in which he did a fantastic job (as he often does in international play). Eventually, he signed a big extension with the Wild. Unfortunately, Zidlicky's spotty defensive awareness gave up quite a few scoring chances and goals this year. He also had an injury down the stretch in which he played some of his worst hockey in a Wild uniform.
With the contract extension, Zidlicky will need to continue to provide offense on a lackluster blueline. If coach Todd Richards limits his ice time in certain situations (defensive zone faceoffs, penalty killing, etc) as Lemaire did, Zidlicky's defensive gaffs can be controlled.
Final Grade: B-
Brent Burns #8 D
47gp 3g 17a 20pts -15 32 PIM
After missing much of last year with injury and a concussion, Brent Burns started the season absolutely horrible. He was rushing the puck too frequently, giving up odd man rushes, and seemed to have too much freedom for his own good. Then he went out with a concussion and missed a fair amount of time again.
Mysteriously, he returned from a "thing" that he got "something" for, and started playing much better. He had more control, picked his spots better, and gave the Wild a much needed scoring threat from the point on the power play.
Burns has two years left on his contract before becoming a UFA, and he will need to prove he can stay healthy, produce at the level he did two years ago, and play strong defense. He has every physical gift a player could ever want, size, speed, hands, vision, and a shot. If he can get the mental side of his game together, he can be one of the best D-men in the league.
Final Grade: B-
Nick Schultz #55 D
80gp 1g 19a 20pts -8 43 PIM
This offseason, Nick Schultz became the longest tenured player for the Wild, and with a lucrative contract was expected to have a bigger offensive role than he did under defensive-minded coach Jacques Lemaire. But while his offensive production did increase, he took quite a step back defensively and was relegated to third-pairing duty for much of the year. Schultz is a defensive defenseman who has decent mobility and is adequate offensively, but when asked to do too much seems to struggle.
To be honest, it would be in the Wild's best interest to find a new home for Schultz. He has never been a dominant player at his position and has a fairly high cap hit for what he brings to the team. There are several defensive prospects coming up who may be able to fill his role down the road. If he remains with the team, he will have to really impress to get a top four spot again, and he should focus on playing a shutdown role as Greg Zanon does.
Final Grade: C
Greg Zanon #6 D
81gp 2g 13a 15pts -10 36 PIM
I'll admit I had no clue who Greg Zanon was when he was signed this past summer, but all he's done is play his heart out, block shuts, play strong defense, and show a lot of character and leading by example. Zanon has decent mobility and makes an adequate first pass, but he's never going to be an offensive marvel. His job is to take defend against the other team, and he does a great job.
Zanon is under a nice contract for two more years, and he should get plenty of even strength and penalty killing time. With former Nashville teammate Marek Zidlicky under contract as well, they will likely be paired together going forward.
Final Grade: A
Shane Hnidy #34 D
70gp 2g 12a 14pts -6 66 PIM
Brought in to increase the physical toughness of the blueline and clear the crease, "Sheriff" Shane Hnidy has been a decent 6th/7th defenseman but not entirely remarkable. He seemed to show a good amount of poise with the puck from time to time and has a decent point shot, but he has a lot of defensive lapses that outweigh his strengths. As solid as he may have once been, Hnidy will likely not return next year to open a roster spot for a young and hungry defensive prospect.
Final Grade: C
Cam Barker #45 D
19gp 1g 6a 7pts -2 10 PIM
The third overall pick behind Alex Ovechkin and Evgeni Malkin has had a rocky start to his career. After a season of good production with Chicago, he took a step back and found himself stuck behind a very deep blueline. Fletcher saw something he liked and traded soon-to-be free agent Kim Johnsson and defensive prospect Nick Leddy for the young Barker in hopes that he would flourish with a bigger role. With Chicago, Barker was a powerplay specialist who never killed penalties and was a third pairing option even strength. In his limited time this season, his ice time and responsibility sky rocketed, moving to the "top" pairing with Brent Burns, and even killing penalties.
Barker has shown some promise and could be a great partner for Burns, who had his best season paired with another big body in Keith Carney. He has a great point shot and can play physical, but he will have to consciously adjust his game to an expanded role, and perhaps expecting him to do a 180 in such a short time this past season was too much, as he struggled quite a bit. I expect he will work hard this offseason and should start next year better after settling into the new team, new city, and new system.
Final Grade: C
Clayton Stoner #7 D
8gp 0g 2a 2pts +1 12 PIM
It's been so long since Clayton Stoner was healthy and playing for the Wild that I honestly don't remember much about his play. I do recall being impressed by his mobility and puck movement for a so-called defensive defenseman, but his season ended with a nagging injury that did not improve through the year. He was, however, rewarded with a contract extension, so he should likely be with the team next season.
Final Grade: Incomplete
John Scott #36 D
51gp 1g 1a 2pts -3 90 PIM
Big John Scott was one of former GM Doug Risebrough's final signings before being relieved of his duties, and the guaranteed contract may have tied Chuck Fletcher's hands a bit when it came to the roster. But Scott did an adequate job playing defense, playing some wing, and of course dropping the gloves. One of the few people to be able to look down (although slightly) at Derek Boogaard, he did bring a physical element to the team. I actually prefer Scott to Boogaard because I feel his contributions with his gloves on are more substantial, but it's entirely possible he could walk as a free agent this summer if the team chooses to keep the fan favorite.
Final Grade: C
Nate Prosser #39 D
3gp 0g 1a 1pts +2 8 PIM
Defenseman Nate Prosser was signed as a college free agent towards the end of the season and expected to watch the games from the pressbox, but got a few chances to play due to injuries. In all honesty, the Wild were so terrible late in the year that I barely watched the games, but Prosser looked VERY mobile and impressive for a rookie fresh out of college, even getting power play time and actually more ice time than many of the regulars.
The logjam at defense next year means Prosser will likely start in Houston, but if he continues to outplay the veterans, I wouldn't be surprised to see him in the lineup on opening day. He could definitely be another free agent steal for the new GM.
Final Grade: Incomplete
Closing Thoughts: The blueline looked to be a position of strength coming into this season, but injuries and poor performance (possibly due to the new system) have made it a position of weakness for the Wild. Because most of the big minute guys are locked up for next season, they will have to grow and improve their play rather than rely on a new face. But with a few defensive prospect studs likely starting their professional careers next fall, there is some hope. Until then, let's hope coach Todd Richards either adjusts his system to the players or vice versa.
Defensive Grade: C+
GOALIES
Niklas Backstrom #32 G
60gp 26w .903 save 2.72 GAA
All-Star goalie Nik Backstrom took advantage of his Vezina finalist performance last year and earned a huge $6m contract. But the real test of his ability came when defensive scheming Jacques Lemaire was replaced by a run-and-gun offensive coach in Todd Richards. For some reason, while the entire team struggled mightily early on, Backstrom played fairly well, but as the team improved marginally, his play took a dive. The usually steady and unflappable goalie had his first slump in the NHL, and regularly was letting in 4 or more goals per game.
Perhaps the poor play was due to injury, as he had back and groin injuries in the middle of the season which kept him off the ice for more games than expected. But with his large contract and no-trade clause, Backstrom will hopefully rebound next year, especially if the team in front of him improves their defensive play.
Final Grade: C
Josh Harding #37 G
25gp 9w .905 save 3.05 GAA
Poor Josh Harding. After paying his dues in the minor leagues for two years waiting for a chance to win an NHL job, he got injured in training camp and lost out to then-unknown Niklas Backstrom, who eventually became the starter. Now with a chance to get more ice time in a dynamic system that plays more to his strength (athletic and instinctive rather than positional), Harding gets hot, starts winning games, and then goes down with injury once again.
Although he struggled early in the year, his play with Backstrom out of the lineup was very inspired and showed the talent that has been promised since he was drafted back in 2002. Harding has stated that he wants a starter's job, and GM Chuck Fletcher seems to have shopped him around, but nobody is interested in a goalie who has injury concerns and hasn't proven much at the NHL level. He may be an attractive piece of a trade this summer, but it's more likely he will have to spend another year to prove his worth.
Final Grade: B-
Closing Thoughts: Another position of strength turned weak as the Wild's goalies were exposed in a system that gave up too many rushes as well as injuries that caused both minor league goaltenders to come up for a while. Backstrom will again be the starter next season, and Harding will likely back him up again. Wild fans can only hope the defense improves to give the goalies a chance to rebound.
Goaltending Grade: C+
Team Thoughts: Well that was a depressing look at the team. The Wild have a few shining stars and players who could definitely rebound next year, and injuries were a big factor in the Wild finishing well out of the playoffs. But there are some major holes to fill and not a lot of cap room or roster spots to do it. If Coach Todd Richards can make some adjustments to his system and the Wild players start out stronger than last season, they can contend for one of the final playoff spots. But if we continue to see minor leaguers suit up for so many games and the team ignoring the defensive part of the game, they'll be golfing early again next year.
Final Wild Grade: C+
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
Improving Wrist Shot Accuracy
A lot of beginners have trouble getting their wrist shots to fly straight and accurate. Often times, they'll take a shot, only to see it wobble and flutter sideways.
Here's the thing with the wrist shot: it's all 100% about spin on the puck.
Find a frisbee. Take it and throw it forward with your wrist completely locked. It will probably wobble and flop and drop to the ground. Now throw it snapping/flicking your wrist like normal...it will spin and sail a good distance.
Notice it will spin and sail straight without weight transfer or anything else...just flicking the wrists.
So apply this to your wrist shot...you need to get spin on the puck if you want it to fly straight and accurate.
To learn it, practice pulling the stick towards the body while shooting. Place the puck at the heel of the blade, then pull the stick towards you to roll it towards the toe. The puck will rotate. The faster you do this, the more spin you get on the puck.
Of course, this is impractical while shooting, so most people will instead open and close the blade. The puck again starts at the heel, but this time roll your wrists to cup the blade over the puck. The curve should make it so the puck is trapped at the heel. As you pull the puck across the body, roll your wrists back to open up the blade so the puck can roll down towards the toe. Finally, when releasing the shot, roll your wrists back over the puck to trap it against the blade so it will go wherever you point the stick on the follow through.
It's tricky to get the timing down just right, especially while you have to pull the top hand back to release the shot, but that's what practice is for!
Here's the thing with the wrist shot: it's all 100% about spin on the puck.
Find a frisbee. Take it and throw it forward with your wrist completely locked. It will probably wobble and flop and drop to the ground. Now throw it snapping/flicking your wrist like normal...it will spin and sail a good distance.
Notice it will spin and sail straight without weight transfer or anything else...just flicking the wrists.
So apply this to your wrist shot...you need to get spin on the puck if you want it to fly straight and accurate.
To learn it, practice pulling the stick towards the body while shooting. Place the puck at the heel of the blade, then pull the stick towards you to roll it towards the toe. The puck will rotate. The faster you do this, the more spin you get on the puck.
Of course, this is impractical while shooting, so most people will instead open and close the blade. The puck again starts at the heel, but this time roll your wrists to cup the blade over the puck. The curve should make it so the puck is trapped at the heel. As you pull the puck across the body, roll your wrists back to open up the blade so the puck can roll down towards the toe. Finally, when releasing the shot, roll your wrists back over the puck to trap it against the blade so it will go wherever you point the stick on the follow through.
It's tricky to get the timing down just right, especially while you have to pull the top hand back to release the shot, but that's what practice is for!
Monday, March 22, 2010
Hockey Equipment: A Beginner's Guide
I'll just get this out of the way, I'm not an expert on hockey gear and don't work at a shop. I see a lot of questions about recommendations for hockey equipment for beginners. So I'll scribble down my two cents. The other thing I won't do is make specific recommendations for gear, because pretty much every brand fits differently. I will put ballpark dollars new and used though.
I'm making the assumption that the person shopping for gear intends to play at least a couple times a month in some sort of pickup game, organized league, beginners school, stick and puck, whatever. It will probably be overkill for someone who wants to head down to the pond twice a winter.
Oh, and when shopping for gear that comes in different colors, the safe bet is black. Most teams use black as the color of their helmets, gloves, and pants, and if you end up joining a team you don't want to have to get all new gear.
Skates - $250-300 new, $125 used
Whatever your budget is, try and put the most money into your skates, and spend the most time trying them on. Skates can come as cheap as $50 on up to over $600. The more you spend, the more durable, lightweight, stiffer, and higher quality the skate. But when you hit about the $250-300 range, you will get almost all the features of a top end skate for half the price without noticing the difference. I do not recommend cheap skates as they are not meant for heavy usage and will likely fall apart or break down too easily.
Every brand has a different fit, most brands have different models that have different fits, and most models have different widths. The first thing to keep in mind is skates are usually 1-2 sizes smaller than shoe size. A good shop will measure you and look at your foot and pick out a few for you to try on. The heel/ankle pocket is the key to the skate. A foot that is locked into place allows you to skate better, no question. If it wobbles around, you're going to get blisters and pain and you will always feel some degree of unsteadiness on the ice.
Here are three simple tests you can do to when trying on a skate:
1. Pencil test - put your foot in the skate, kick your heels back into the skate, and pull the tongues forward. Try laying a pencil across the top of the skate behind the tongue and trace up and down. Ideally, you want your foot to just touch the tongue around the 3rd/4th eyelets. If there's a big gap, the skates might be too deep, and if your foot sticks out, the skates might be too shallow.
2. Heel lift - lace up the skates nice and snug, then stand up. Put one foot forward and shift your weight front to back. If you feel your heel lifting up, the skate might be too long or wide in the heel. Slide your foot forward and see if you can fit a finger behind your heel...if so the skates are too long.
3. Forefoot - with the skates laced up snug, leave them on for several minutes and/or walk around the store (assuming they have carpet and will let you). If you feel too much pinching, cramping, or pain in the front of the feet, you may need to have them stretched or go to a wider boot.
These are very rough guidelines...nothing beats a good shop with knowledgeable sales staff and a wide selection. But if your skate locks your heel/ankle into place and you can skate without pain, you will set yourself up for a much easier path to improving your ability to skate.
Buying a used skate is a great way to save money...be sure to check it thoroughly to make sure the boot isn't falling apart, the stitching isn't falling out, the holder is still secured tight, and the steel has some life left.
Helmet - $100 new, not recommended used
The most important piece of protective gear is your helmet. While you can get away with a $40 model, a little extra protection goes a long way...you only get one brain. The more expensive helmets usually have more cushion and padding for the head while the cheaper ones will use a durable foam.
That said, the most important aspect of a helmet is how it fits your head. The primary purpose is to prevent you from cracking open your skull and giving a little cushion when you fall. A helmet that is too big will slide around when you're falling, which is not going to do you any good. On the other hand, a helmet that's too small will pinch and cause pain and headaches. Most helmets adjust slightly for size, so be sure to have your salesman assist you to get the best fit.
I don't recommend a used helmet because any cracks or damage to the structure or foam seriously compromise the protection. And who wants to stick their head into a helmet that someone else has been sweating in?
Cage - $40 new
Assuming you're playing with other people, get a cage. Yes, the NHL'ers wear visors, but you're not getting paid to play hockey, and accidents happen. Sticks and pucks get up up high and can not only knock out teeth and break noses, they can take out eyes. Cheap cages are often painted white or black and have thick bars that are distracting to the vision as well as heavy on your head. Spend a little more to get a cage with silver oval-shaped bars that have the same protection but are thinner, lighter weight, and less distracting.
Be sure to check the fit with your helmet and make sure you get it installed properly.
Gloves - $100 new, not recommended used
For the most part, you get what you pay for with gloves. Cheap gloves are pretty flimsy with little protection from sticks and pucks. Expensive gloves have a lot of extra padding and plastic inserts to prevent broken fingers and bruises. The $100 mark is usually where you'll find very good quality without having to shell out for high end models.
When trying on gloves, grab a stick off the shelf and notice how they move with you. Do they slide around when stickhandling? Are the cuffs restricting your movement? Are the fingers uncomfortable when holding the stick?
As with helmets, I don't like used gloves because they will almost always smell, which is a sign of bacteria. And you don't want to risk picking up a staph infection.
Elbow Pads - $40 new, $20 used
A good pair of elbow pads is essential for learning to play hockey. You're going to fall, and often you will land right on the elbow. You shouldn't have to spend a lot of money to get a good fitting and protective elbow pad. Make sure there's plenty of cushion and a good hard cap to prevent fracture. Some models have extended bicep or forearm protection to make up for gaps in shoulder pads and gloves.
When you try on elbow pads, they shouldn't slide up and down the arm. Most quality pads will have a strap running across the elbow to lock them into place.
Used elbow pads that are very clean can save you some money. Just be sure all the straps and padding are in good condition.
Shoulder Pads - $50 new, $25 used
There is a wide variety of shoulder pads on the market. The cheapest shoulder pads are flimsy pieces of cotton and foam that give a little bit of shoulder protection. As you spend more money, you get more padding, bigger shoulder caps, and more chest and spine protection. For the beginner, low- to mid-range shoulder pads work just fine. Another consideration is how much air flow you'll get. A pad that covers a lot of the body and doesn't have ventilation will make you get incredibly hot on the ice and will be terribly uncomfortable.
When trying on the pads, hunch over, grab a stick, move around, turn your torso to either side, basically do anything you can to try and make the pads move around. You don't want a shoulder pad that will slide around or one that will inhibit your movement. For women, they make shoulder pads that have some extra room in the chest...some women are fine using a men's pad and others find the women's pads much more comfortable.
Used shoulder pads are certainly an option to save some money if they are clean and in good shape.
Pants/Breezers - $100 new, $50 used
For beginners, the primary purpose of hockey pants (or breezers) is to cushion your butt when you fall...which you will do a lot. Look for some pants with plenty of hip and tailbone padding. Cheap pants tend to have thin foam which gives very little protection, while the top of the line pants will have a ton of padding and plastic inserts to protect against hard shots.
Ideally, the pants will cover your knees when standing up straight. As with other pads, try them on and move around every way you can think about to see if they slide around or are uncomfortable. If you're skinny or tall and require bigger pants, pick up some suspenders to keep them from moving around too much.
Used pants are some of the best deals around. Because players usually wear shorts under them, they are usually fairly clean. You also see a lot of high quality pants at used shops as high school players outgrow them (often in the local team colors). Just make sure the padding is all intact, the belt is in place, and the cover isn't ripped up.
Shin Guards - $50 new, $25 used
Shin guards serve two main purposes: they protect your shins from pucks and sticks and give your knees padding when you fall. Low end models have decent padding and shin protection, while the high end pads have floating knee cap protection and guards in the back of the legs, which is really nice if you take a puck or stick in an otherwise unprotected area. Cheap shin pads work just fine, but in a competitive league spend a little more money for calf coverage.
Shin pads should comfortably fit your knee, shin, and calf without sliding around. If the pads are longer, you can wear them outside the tongues of your skates (put the skates on first, then the shin pads) for extra protection. If they're short, you can put the tongues outside the shin pads to allow a little extra freedom of movement. Either way, be sure your entire shin is covered from knee to skate. And if they still move around a bit, you can tape them down after getting dressed.
Like elbow pads, you can find used shin guards, although I'd tend to shy away from something that has been on someone's sweaty legs.
Stick - $40
While I've written quite a bit on selecting a hockey stick (see the series from last summer), a beginner should just get a good wood stick with a mild curve. While I'm a fan of composite sticks for intermediate players, a beginner will find no benefit for the additional cost. The wood stick will build up muscles, give better feel for the puck, make it easier to learn to pass, and will be about the same for shooting until proper mechanics are learned.
Mouthguard - $20
Yes, you will want a mouthguard, even if you bought a full cage. It will protect your teeth from cracking if your jaw gets smacked shut and could help prevent concussion (although the science is not 100% on this yet). The cheaper boil-and-bite models will work fine if you're wearing a cage, but there are some great models that go on your bottom teeth only that make it easier to speake and breathe for just a bit more.
Jock - $30
A lot of the old school players still go for the old jock strap and cup, but I prefer a modern compression short jock. These are more comfortable and have velcro tabs to hold socks up, eliminating the need for the old garter belt. Plus, you can wear them to and from the rink under pants for quicker changing (most rinks don't have showers available).
Jerseys - $20
Just a note to beginners, if you wear your authentic NHL jersey with a star player's name and number on the back, everyone on the bench will laugh at you. A better option is to pick up a simple white and dark jersey, because at open hockey teams are split up and you'll want one of each color. And get a white jersey, not light gray, or yellow, or a pastel color. If you're particularly ambitious, cruise around the used shops for obscure team and practice jerseys.
Socks - $10
You'll want one good pair of quality hockey socks (the ones that go outside your shin guards, not on your feet). Go wild and get whatever color you like...you do want to express yourself, don't you? As for your feet, thin socks are the way to go, especially if you haven't yet purchased skates. Skate socks can run quite a bit of money, but some thin dress socks will do the job just fine.
Tape - $10
You'll want to grab two kinds of tape: cloth tape, and shin tape. Cloth tape comes in white and black, and that's what you use to tape up your stick. Most people use white tape up top to prevent glove palms from getting discolored and black tape on the blade because it's the traditional color (although white is very popular too). Don't be that guy who uses camouflage tape. Shin tape is made of plastic and is more flexible (prevents you from cutting off blood flow). It's used over the socks to keep shin guards on tight (most players will tape below the knee or at the top of the calf muscle, some at the bottom of the calf as well). Get plenty of tape unless you like driving to the store a lot.
Bag - $50
Now that you've got all your shiny new gear, you'll need a bag to put it all in. I recommend finding a bag that has skate pockets as well as at least one extra outside pocket for jerseys. Even better, a second outside pocket that can hold your helmet, and a small accessory pocket for extra tape, a screwdriver, some change for a vending machine, etc. Cheap bags will likely rip and fall apart, so if you can spend a little more money on a quality bag, you will save a lot of money in the long run.
That's it! Now you should know what to look for when picking up all your gear.
I'm making the assumption that the person shopping for gear intends to play at least a couple times a month in some sort of pickup game, organized league, beginners school, stick and puck, whatever. It will probably be overkill for someone who wants to head down to the pond twice a winter.
Oh, and when shopping for gear that comes in different colors, the safe bet is black. Most teams use black as the color of their helmets, gloves, and pants, and if you end up joining a team you don't want to have to get all new gear.
Skates - $250-300 new, $125 used
Whatever your budget is, try and put the most money into your skates, and spend the most time trying them on. Skates can come as cheap as $50 on up to over $600. The more you spend, the more durable, lightweight, stiffer, and higher quality the skate. But when you hit about the $250-300 range, you will get almost all the features of a top end skate for half the price without noticing the difference. I do not recommend cheap skates as they are not meant for heavy usage and will likely fall apart or break down too easily.
Every brand has a different fit, most brands have different models that have different fits, and most models have different widths. The first thing to keep in mind is skates are usually 1-2 sizes smaller than shoe size. A good shop will measure you and look at your foot and pick out a few for you to try on. The heel/ankle pocket is the key to the skate. A foot that is locked into place allows you to skate better, no question. If it wobbles around, you're going to get blisters and pain and you will always feel some degree of unsteadiness on the ice.
Here are three simple tests you can do to when trying on a skate:
1. Pencil test - put your foot in the skate, kick your heels back into the skate, and pull the tongues forward. Try laying a pencil across the top of the skate behind the tongue and trace up and down. Ideally, you want your foot to just touch the tongue around the 3rd/4th eyelets. If there's a big gap, the skates might be too deep, and if your foot sticks out, the skates might be too shallow.
2. Heel lift - lace up the skates nice and snug, then stand up. Put one foot forward and shift your weight front to back. If you feel your heel lifting up, the skate might be too long or wide in the heel. Slide your foot forward and see if you can fit a finger behind your heel...if so the skates are too long.
3. Forefoot - with the skates laced up snug, leave them on for several minutes and/or walk around the store (assuming they have carpet and will let you). If you feel too much pinching, cramping, or pain in the front of the feet, you may need to have them stretched or go to a wider boot.
These are very rough guidelines...nothing beats a good shop with knowledgeable sales staff and a wide selection. But if your skate locks your heel/ankle into place and you can skate without pain, you will set yourself up for a much easier path to improving your ability to skate.
Buying a used skate is a great way to save money...be sure to check it thoroughly to make sure the boot isn't falling apart, the stitching isn't falling out, the holder is still secured tight, and the steel has some life left.
Helmet - $100 new, not recommended used
The most important piece of protective gear is your helmet. While you can get away with a $40 model, a little extra protection goes a long way...you only get one brain. The more expensive helmets usually have more cushion and padding for the head while the cheaper ones will use a durable foam.
That said, the most important aspect of a helmet is how it fits your head. The primary purpose is to prevent you from cracking open your skull and giving a little cushion when you fall. A helmet that is too big will slide around when you're falling, which is not going to do you any good. On the other hand, a helmet that's too small will pinch and cause pain and headaches. Most helmets adjust slightly for size, so be sure to have your salesman assist you to get the best fit.
I don't recommend a used helmet because any cracks or damage to the structure or foam seriously compromise the protection. And who wants to stick their head into a helmet that someone else has been sweating in?
Cage - $40 new
Assuming you're playing with other people, get a cage. Yes, the NHL'ers wear visors, but you're not getting paid to play hockey, and accidents happen. Sticks and pucks get up up high and can not only knock out teeth and break noses, they can take out eyes. Cheap cages are often painted white or black and have thick bars that are distracting to the vision as well as heavy on your head. Spend a little more to get a cage with silver oval-shaped bars that have the same protection but are thinner, lighter weight, and less distracting.
Be sure to check the fit with your helmet and make sure you get it installed properly.
Gloves - $100 new, not recommended used
For the most part, you get what you pay for with gloves. Cheap gloves are pretty flimsy with little protection from sticks and pucks. Expensive gloves have a lot of extra padding and plastic inserts to prevent broken fingers and bruises. The $100 mark is usually where you'll find very good quality without having to shell out for high end models.
When trying on gloves, grab a stick off the shelf and notice how they move with you. Do they slide around when stickhandling? Are the cuffs restricting your movement? Are the fingers uncomfortable when holding the stick?
As with helmets, I don't like used gloves because they will almost always smell, which is a sign of bacteria. And you don't want to risk picking up a staph infection.
Elbow Pads - $40 new, $20 used
A good pair of elbow pads is essential for learning to play hockey. You're going to fall, and often you will land right on the elbow. You shouldn't have to spend a lot of money to get a good fitting and protective elbow pad. Make sure there's plenty of cushion and a good hard cap to prevent fracture. Some models have extended bicep or forearm protection to make up for gaps in shoulder pads and gloves.
When you try on elbow pads, they shouldn't slide up and down the arm. Most quality pads will have a strap running across the elbow to lock them into place.
Used elbow pads that are very clean can save you some money. Just be sure all the straps and padding are in good condition.
Shoulder Pads - $50 new, $25 used
There is a wide variety of shoulder pads on the market. The cheapest shoulder pads are flimsy pieces of cotton and foam that give a little bit of shoulder protection. As you spend more money, you get more padding, bigger shoulder caps, and more chest and spine protection. For the beginner, low- to mid-range shoulder pads work just fine. Another consideration is how much air flow you'll get. A pad that covers a lot of the body and doesn't have ventilation will make you get incredibly hot on the ice and will be terribly uncomfortable.
When trying on the pads, hunch over, grab a stick, move around, turn your torso to either side, basically do anything you can to try and make the pads move around. You don't want a shoulder pad that will slide around or one that will inhibit your movement. For women, they make shoulder pads that have some extra room in the chest...some women are fine using a men's pad and others find the women's pads much more comfortable.
Used shoulder pads are certainly an option to save some money if they are clean and in good shape.
Pants/Breezers - $100 new, $50 used
For beginners, the primary purpose of hockey pants (or breezers) is to cushion your butt when you fall...which you will do a lot. Look for some pants with plenty of hip and tailbone padding. Cheap pants tend to have thin foam which gives very little protection, while the top of the line pants will have a ton of padding and plastic inserts to protect against hard shots.
Ideally, the pants will cover your knees when standing up straight. As with other pads, try them on and move around every way you can think about to see if they slide around or are uncomfortable. If you're skinny or tall and require bigger pants, pick up some suspenders to keep them from moving around too much.
Used pants are some of the best deals around. Because players usually wear shorts under them, they are usually fairly clean. You also see a lot of high quality pants at used shops as high school players outgrow them (often in the local team colors). Just make sure the padding is all intact, the belt is in place, and the cover isn't ripped up.
Shin Guards - $50 new, $25 used
Shin guards serve two main purposes: they protect your shins from pucks and sticks and give your knees padding when you fall. Low end models have decent padding and shin protection, while the high end pads have floating knee cap protection and guards in the back of the legs, which is really nice if you take a puck or stick in an otherwise unprotected area. Cheap shin pads work just fine, but in a competitive league spend a little more money for calf coverage.
Shin pads should comfortably fit your knee, shin, and calf without sliding around. If the pads are longer, you can wear them outside the tongues of your skates (put the skates on first, then the shin pads) for extra protection. If they're short, you can put the tongues outside the shin pads to allow a little extra freedom of movement. Either way, be sure your entire shin is covered from knee to skate. And if they still move around a bit, you can tape them down after getting dressed.
Like elbow pads, you can find used shin guards, although I'd tend to shy away from something that has been on someone's sweaty legs.
Stick - $40
While I've written quite a bit on selecting a hockey stick (see the series from last summer), a beginner should just get a good wood stick with a mild curve. While I'm a fan of composite sticks for intermediate players, a beginner will find no benefit for the additional cost. The wood stick will build up muscles, give better feel for the puck, make it easier to learn to pass, and will be about the same for shooting until proper mechanics are learned.
Mouthguard - $20
Yes, you will want a mouthguard, even if you bought a full cage. It will protect your teeth from cracking if your jaw gets smacked shut and could help prevent concussion (although the science is not 100% on this yet). The cheaper boil-and-bite models will work fine if you're wearing a cage, but there are some great models that go on your bottom teeth only that make it easier to speake and breathe for just a bit more.
Jock - $30
A lot of the old school players still go for the old jock strap and cup, but I prefer a modern compression short jock. These are more comfortable and have velcro tabs to hold socks up, eliminating the need for the old garter belt. Plus, you can wear them to and from the rink under pants for quicker changing (most rinks don't have showers available).
Jerseys - $20
Just a note to beginners, if you wear your authentic NHL jersey with a star player's name and number on the back, everyone on the bench will laugh at you. A better option is to pick up a simple white and dark jersey, because at open hockey teams are split up and you'll want one of each color. And get a white jersey, not light gray, or yellow, or a pastel color. If you're particularly ambitious, cruise around the used shops for obscure team and practice jerseys.
Socks - $10
You'll want one good pair of quality hockey socks (the ones that go outside your shin guards, not on your feet). Go wild and get whatever color you like...you do want to express yourself, don't you? As for your feet, thin socks are the way to go, especially if you haven't yet purchased skates. Skate socks can run quite a bit of money, but some thin dress socks will do the job just fine.
Tape - $10
You'll want to grab two kinds of tape: cloth tape, and shin tape. Cloth tape comes in white and black, and that's what you use to tape up your stick. Most people use white tape up top to prevent glove palms from getting discolored and black tape on the blade because it's the traditional color (although white is very popular too). Don't be that guy who uses camouflage tape. Shin tape is made of plastic and is more flexible (prevents you from cutting off blood flow). It's used over the socks to keep shin guards on tight (most players will tape below the knee or at the top of the calf muscle, some at the bottom of the calf as well). Get plenty of tape unless you like driving to the store a lot.
Bag - $50
Now that you've got all your shiny new gear, you'll need a bag to put it all in. I recommend finding a bag that has skate pockets as well as at least one extra outside pocket for jerseys. Even better, a second outside pocket that can hold your helmet, and a small accessory pocket for extra tape, a screwdriver, some change for a vending machine, etc. Cheap bags will likely rip and fall apart, so if you can spend a little more money on a quality bag, you will save a lot of money in the long run.
That's it! Now you should know what to look for when picking up all your gear.
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